“Waves are not measured in feet or inches. They are measured in increments of fear.” —Buzzy Trent, an American pioneer of big wave surfing
The history of surfing is a long one. It reaches as far back as 3000 B.C. when Incan fishermen rode the waves in caballitos. The caballito was a one-man thatched-reed vessel similar to a kayak used to haul in fishing nets cast off-shore.
What we know today as stand up surfing can be traced back to the Polynesians on the Hawaiian Island around 1000 A.D. It was then that surfing became not only a means to haul in catches of the day, but also a popular leisure activity and sporting event enjoyed by both royalty and commoners including men, women and children.
How Has Surfing Changed?
Surfing has changed dramatically in terms of board design since those earliest days, becoming a popular sport along coastlines worldwide. And Nova Scotia is no exception. With its rugged convoluted coastline, offshore reefs, beach breaks and ideal wind and swell conditions, it’s a perfect combination for any surfing enthusiast.
Surfing has traditionally been a male dominated sport but now more women are becoming increasingly engaged. It is an unbelievably good workout for the entire body. If you want to be an avid surfer you have to be in excellent shape.
Lessons are always recommended for the novice to learn basic surfing skills and safety considerations such as dealing with hypothermia for those engaging in fall or winter surfing. The new gear now available enables at least a good few hours of surfing during these seasons.
Codes of Conduct and Proper Etiquette
Surfing is a demanding sport with some elements of danger present, so a surfer has to respect the seas using both diligence and forethought. Rocks can pose dangers especially when surfing near reefs and, unfortunately surfers have hit these rocks on occasion. It’s best to avoid these areas as much as possible.
The ocean can be a deadly place if rules aren’t followed. As with boaters, surfers also must conform to codes of conduct and proper etiquette to ensure the safety of those around them. Proper etiquette entails paddling out away from others on the water, respecting the right of way, maintaining control of the board at all times and resisting the temptation to be deemed a “wave hog.”
While out with other surfers, there is a line-up to be respected so that everyone has their chance. Not all waves are suitable to be tackled. These waves come in sets which are the most anticipated due to the power within them.
Some other things to consider when riding the waves:
- Avoid ‘snaking’ which is both disrespectful and potentially dangerous. Snaking is a term that relates to paddling around other surfers in order to reach the peak of a wave and gain priority.
- A surfboard can be dangerous, so always wear a leash. At all times, avoid ‘ditching’ your board as it can cause injuries to both yourself and others around you.
- Communicate your intentions to other surfers whether that be your intent to surf to the left or right.
- Respect the beaches and avoid disposing of litter on the sand or water.
Aside from the beneficial total body workout, surfing can instill a sense of personal achievement, exercises the mind and can be a fun-filled safe adventure on the high seas all while respecting the power of Mother Nature.