The Exhilaration of Surfing – Shooting the Curl and Catching the Surfing Bug
“Waves are not measured in feet or inches. They are measured in increments of fear.” —Buzzy Trent, an American pioneer of big wave surfing The history of surfing is a long one. It reaches as far back as 3000 B.C. when Incan fishermen rode the waves in caballitos. The caballito was a one-man thatched-reed vessel …
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