Chemainus: The City of Murals

As the sun begins to set later in the day and the weather beckons us to step outside, so does the travelling season. Even while having visited Vancouver Island more than seven times, the east coast never ceases to amaze me. Most visitors only know the island for its larger, more populated cities, such as Victoria, Nanaimo, and even Tofino, often leaving the smaller towns unexplored. 

You might be wondering why the emphasis is on smaller, unknown places with populations of mere thousands. The reason: it’s history and beauty. I encourage those with wanderlust to visit unexplored places and to be open to experiencing cultural diversity. I normally stumble upon these hidden gems by simply searching for unique AirBnbs within Transits’ reach. That is how my partner and I decided to visit the quaint, old town of Chemainus famously also known as “The City of Murals.” 

A ferry ride away 

Located on Vancouver Island, within the municipality of North Cowichan, Chemainus is easily accessible. Visitors can reach the town by a 2-hour ferry ride via Victoria or Nanaimo, followed by a few bus rides down the countryside. Those visiting from Vancouver can take the ferry from either Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal in Twassassen or the Horseshoe Bay Ferry Terminal in West Vancouver. However, travelling to Vancouver Island from the mainland without a car can easily take 6-7 hours. A piece of advice: BC Transit (Vancouver Island’s transportation system) does not accept debit or credit cards as payment methods. So don’t forget to carry some spare change!

Understanding the town’s history

From the first moment we stepped into the town, up until the last bus ride back home, the city was full of surprises. Every turn you take and every wall you look at, showcases breathtaking murals—each depicting a history of its own. Chemainus has over 50 murals and sculptures, making the city’s mural project one of the world’s leading community-driven art tourism experience.

The mural project was undertaken in order to revive the dying town of Chemainus. Logging and milling industries had been the backbone of Chemainus, but as time went on, this began to change. When the milling industries shut down, the town had to reinvent itself to survive. Each mural is marked with a unique number. The markings make it easier for tourists to follow the sequence of murals. Fun fact: Canadian artist, Emily Carr, has her own set of numbered murals as well. You can follow the map of murals here, or purchase a $5 map from the Chemainus Museum.

Fascinatingly, the murals, as symbolic as they are, aren’t the only things that leave you awestruck in this town. The architectural design of Chemainus—its homes, shops, eateries, and public spaces—resembles vibrant Texas architecture. You’ll find wooden structures painted in bright colours, well-tended front yard landscaping, and cheerful, talkative homeowners.  

Tourist attractions in Chemainus

Kinsmen Beach Park is a popular family-oriented spot with access to the beach and a playground for kids. In the town’s center you’ll find the Chemainus Public Market. This market contains interesting little shops ranging from a pet store with organic products from New Zealand, to an arcade room containing the oldest Pac-Man game. You can also stroll down to the Chemainus Valley Museum, a donation-run museum containing trinkets from the town’s past. These include old sawmill machinery and equipment, as well as ancient photographs that take you step-by-step through the town’s history. Next, you can visit the Waterwheel Park, which possesses a replica of the waterwheels that were used to power mills in the past. 

If you walk a little further past the market, you will find yourself in a block with several shops, cafes, and restaurants. An interesting thing to note in Chemainus is the concept of antique shops. You could find one on nearly every corner, containing antiquities from decades ago. Last but not least, the Chemainus Theatre is a heritage landmark that showcases plays year-round, allowing visitors to witness some of the country’s most iconic performances. 

Where to stay

When it comes to accommodations, I would highly recommend staying at A Cottage & Castle B&B. It is a vintage, remodelled Japanese house built in 1910, located just two minutes away from Kinsmen Beach. Hosted by Christina, the space offers a variety of rooms to choose from. Each of them invites a sense of antiquity and uniqueness, as well as a hot and welcoming breakfast every morning. As for the word “castle,” the house was built with a laundry room back in the day which has now been converted into a beautiful and extravagant castle (aka honeymoon suite) to give visitors a taste of paradise.