November 16, 2010: River Plate vs Boca Juniors
It’s November 16, 2010. I’m in the top tier of River Plate’s Estadio Monumental, nestled in Buenos Aires’ affluent Belgrano neighbourhood. The sun sets on a clear, yet cool Argentinian spring night. It’s stunning, but the orange glow in the southern hemisphere is an afterthought compared to what I’m about to witness. It’s the Superclásico of the 2010 Argentina Apertura season—River Plate vs Boca Juniors. The two largest and most decorated Argentinian soccer clubs that both call Buenos Aires home.
Boca and River (as they’re more commonly known) linger in mid-table mediocrity this season, but you wouldn’t be able to tell by the fervour and passion that runs through the stadium. The stakes are high whenever these two teams meet. This is a game about honour and pride, where bragging rights reign supreme in a neighbouring rivalry that has been bubbling for over a century.
The score is 0-0 (nil-nil for the soccer aficionados out there) in a tightly contested but relatively uneventful game as far as goal threats are concerned. Boca concedes a corner in the 52nd minute. River Plate’s Jonatan Maidana times a perfect run from the top of the 18-yard box. He strikes the ball on the volley, sending it into the ground and over the outstretched hand of Boca’s keeper, Javier Garcia. The stadium erupts in rapture. Red flares pop up everywhere. The air fills with red smoke as the 80,000-plus faithfully break out into unison songs and chants.
The calm before the storm
In the cordoned-off corner of the upper-tier, Boca fans set off their own flares, but for different reasons. Whether they want to show their displeasure at River scoring, at the audacity of River’s supporters celebrating, or maybe even a sign of discontent with their own team, the Boca flare-wielding fans toss them over the barrier onto the River supporters in the lower tier. But they don’t stop there. Seconds later, a barrage of instruments rains down on the River fans below. As if that wasn’t enough, they then start to rip chairs off the stands and toss them over. After the initial wave of chairs make their way down, they light the plastic stadium seats on fire and send them over in subsequent attacks on their opposition’s fans.
The River fans clear the danger area and scramble to safety. Although, instead of reacting angrily to the fiery debris hurled their way, they respond by taunting their rivals with colourful hand gestures, songs, and chants.
Maybe it’s because I’m soft (I am probably a little soft) but for a moment, I thought a riot was definitely in the cards. Even before the match began, I could feel how charged and significant this game was. But it was only then that I understood why this game was called “El Superclásico.” Not because “El Clásico” was already taken by the meetings between Spain’s Real Madrid and Barcelona teams. But because both the love and hate for each of the teams in Buenos Aires is so magnified and extreme that it requires an extra adjective to do it justice. Yet, what’s the root of such polarizing emotions between two soccer rivals from the same city? Is it because they’re only separated by 7 km, or is there something more?
The origin story: Where the Superclásico rivalry began
The origin of this fierce rivalry goes all the way back to the turn of the 20th century, where both teams’ storied histories began. River Plate and Boca Juniors were both founded in Buenos Aires’ La Boca neighbourhood—in 1901 and 1905 respectively—where the Riachuelo river meets the Rio de la Plata, hence the names of both clubs (Rio de la Plata = River Plate and La Boca = Boca Juniors).
La Boca was home to the influx of Italian immigrants crossing the Atlantic to find better fortune in the Americas. Both teams had a strong contingent of newly-arrived working-class Italians settling in Argentina and cheering them on from their inception. But that all changed in 1925 when River Plate moved North to the more affluent Núñez neighbourhood of Buenos Aires. In 1938, they opened the doors to their newly built stadium, El Estadio Mâs Monumental, which straddles the border of Núñez and the equally chic Belgrano neighbourhood.
A clash of identities
From that point on, these teams absorbed the socioeconomic identities of their surroundings. Boca Juniors became “the people’s club,” representing the working class because of the specific neighbourhood they called home. River Plate became associated with the rich and even took on the moniker “Los Millonarios” (The Millionaires). However, like a lot of soccer lore, there is a misconception around even the origin of River’s nickname.
They were anointed as “Los Millionarios” not because of their fancy, upscale new digs, but because they spent $105,000 pesos (an incredible sum at the time) to strengthen their squad in 1932, just one year after professional soccer was ushered in, and went on to win the league. Their victory was thanks to River’s newest—and very expensive—additions to the squad. These additions included Carlos Peucelle who was worth $10,000 pesos and Bernabe Ferreyra who they acquired from Tigres for a then world-record transfer fee of $35,000 pesos. Ferreyra would go on to score a league-leading 42 goals in 1932 as River marched their way to a convincing domestic title.
Class differences may have been a key differentiator at the outset of these clubs that stoked the flames of a smoking rivalry, but upon closer inspection, it doesn’t really explain why intense animosity still exists to this day.
An overview of the Superclásico animosity
While the most fervent of fans may still hold on to these historical class-conflicting identities, socioeconomic status no longer determines which club you support. Geography maybe, but not your rank within the Argentinian social hierarchy.
So what’s with all the competition?
The reason there is such a strong rivalry and distaste between these two local opponents is because they’re the most elite and decorated clubs of Argentinian soccer. Their resumes of sporting triumphs and championships are practically carbon copies of each other.
River Plate has been crowned league champions 37 times. Boca Juniors 35. However, Boca has the edge for Copa Libertadores titles with 6 compared to River’s 4.
Even as fierce rivals, matches between both teams are often marred by violence amongst supporters. In 1968, a total of 71 Boca fans died and 150 more were injured at River’s El Monumental stadium. The mostly young Boca supporters were crushed to death as they tried to exit the grounds using Gate (Puerta) 12, but the door was blocked. Remembered as the Puerta 12 tragedy, it remains Argentina’s worst soccer tragedy to date.
Sport, in a powder keg of emotion, gives way to something more along the lines of mob mentality, tribalism, and destructive catharsis. Yet this in itself is very Argentinian. They don’t celebrate violence, but unapologetic passion for the game is a source of pride. Soccer in Argentina is often described as “grinta,” meaning grit and determination. The evidence is clear as this ethos permeates the style of play on the pitch and extends itself to the support pouring down from the terraces.
Jorge Valdano, a hero of the 1986 World Cup-winning Argentina team, turned poet, and nicknamed “the philosopher of football” embodied this spirit quite well when he explained, “I love football because it’s the opposite of science: contradictory, primitive, emotional.”
The Superclásico experience
A Superclásico experience varies, depending on the stadium in which you happen to watch the game. Boca Juniors’ stadium, La Bombonera, is very compact. The stands and terraces jet upwards, creating a vertical and incredibly intimate effect. Being very close to the pitch, you might feel as though you’re practically on top of the field. Conversely, the players feel as though fans are on top of them, making it an incredibly intimidating and daunting place to play.
On the other hand, River Plate’s stadium, El Monumental, is an expansive concrete mass. While it is more open, it gives the impression of a vast, yet fierce sea of the most ardent supporters.
A taste of what to expect
Before the match, as you take your seat, the supporters tear up old newspapers and magazines into confetti. They might ask you to join in. This is all in preparation for La Entrada (The Entrance) as the players make their way to the pitch.
There’s a buzz in the air. The thick anxious energy reaches a crescendo as soon as the crowd spots both teams entering the field. An endless stream of confetti rains down from all sides of the stadium. The crowd serenades the players with thunderous applause and curated chants.
The stadium sways and shakes as all supporters jump and sing in unison. The beating and singing of the unofficial choir leaders never stops, making it so your heart beats in sync to the rhythm and passion in the air.
You will gasp at every missed chance and hear as both the referee and opposition are berated with deplorable insults hurled at them, their legacies, and even at times, their families.
Uniting with the crowd
For a fully immersive experience, bring some old newspapers or magazines to contribute to the ceremony. The home faithful will embrace you as one of their own. If you want to go the extra mile, familiarize yourself with the home team’s chants and join in for a more intimate experience. There are Spotify playlists for both Boca’s and River’s most famous songs to sing in terraces.
If you’re lucky to witness a goal scored by the home team, be prepared to hug strangers and to have strangers hug you. It’s impossible not to get swept up in the ferocity of the energy and emotion that infinitely swirls about. The experience will unequivocally capture your heart and you will become a faithful supporter—or “ultra” if you will—from then on.
Suggestions for watching the Superclásico live
If living the Superclásico is of interest or perhaps even on your bucket list, there are a number of ways to make it happen. Before taking the obvious steps, like traveling to Buenos Aires to watch the game, it’s a good idea to exercise some caution.
The rivalry is very intense and occasionally marred by supporter clashes and violence. For instance, wearing the wrong coloured shirt in the wrong part of town is ill-advised. It’s a good idea to employ the services of a travel company or tour group that specialize in Superclásico experiences. They prioritize your safety while also optimizing your enjoyment, navigating the intricacies of the sub-culture that is Argentinian soccer. For example, transport to and from the stadium is normally provided. In my case, we used a chartered bus. The curtains were drawn for the duration of the drive so as not to attract unwanted attention from fans with perhaps slightly nefarious intentions.
On Superclásico day, there’s an energy that travels through the bustling metropolis that is Buenos Aires. Emotions are high. So is the tension. While I felt safe at all times, I could tell the tour operators and guides were on high alert and hyper-aware of our surroundings. A Superclásico can descend into chaos in an instant, so having seasoned professionals around that know what to do in such extreme cases can be quite comforting. It allows you to focus on your enjoyment without having to worry about contingency plans for worst-case scenarios.
Planning ahead
Make sure to plan this adventure far in advance as tickets tend to sell out incredibly fast. For example, one provider that offers Superclasico experiences has no remaining spots available for either match in 2023. Only a handful of available spots remain for the matches scheduled in the 2024 calendar year.
The demand is incredibly high and there’s a reason for that. Whether you’re a soccer fan or not, this is one of those captivating experiences you’ll remember and cherish for the rest of your life. El Superclásico is the zenith of spectacle, madness, and above all else, passion.